So sorry. The free mini-course Why Animal Emotions Matter is closed. It was available for a few weeks, and reached thousands of people and their animals across the globe!
- A friend commented this morning how much my young dog has changed over the last week. ‘He seems much more content’ she said. (Dianne)
- Literally packed with really good advice and information, all relayed in a layman way so really easy to follow and understand (Elaine)
- Fantastic material – super informative and well worth the time… I will be taking up future paid trainings! (Kicki)
- I haven’t found the right science-based course until I wrote pages of notes after following this course. (Hannah)
- Thank you so much for this free video course, it has been life changing! (Luba)
- Lightbulb moments galore! (Sue)
- Your message is so needed and can make a huge difference in the joy that animals and people share (Susan)
Don’t worry, I give these free trainings about how emotions impact animals’ behaviour, personality, social skills and wellbeing once a year – you can always attend the next one! Just sign up to get notified about it, and I’ll also keep you posted on blog posts, free webinars and courses, all about animal behaviour, learning and welfare.
Also, you could check out one of the previous versions of this mini-course, called The Fundamentals – handling emotional states in animals. The first part is free!
Thank you so much for this free course.
Very good to hear this information from a conscious person and in a different way.
However I’m very aware of the emotions and behaviour of pets/animals, it is more on a subconcsious level. Like intuitively
Hearing the theory including the examples makes it easier for me to explain what I feel / know / see with animals and their behaviour whenever I work with a client and the pet.
And I was just in time….to watch all 4 of them…
Glad you made it – and that you enjoyed the course! HOpe you can put it to good use! 🙂
Dear Karolina
THANK YOU for making everything even more clear in my mind.
I have for a long period of time been on the animal emotion journey but you have in some way created a red thread in all of my thoughts and knowledge. You have also provided me backup in my way of interacting with my own dog. Many people tend to call me a ‘curling dog mom’ because I always seek to read him and act before things escalate. Know I am even more capable of breaking ‘old norms’ with clear arguments.
I wrote my thesis about six behavioural problems and I categorised them from core emotions which is, as you know, a bit unusual in the academic world, so I am so thrilled that this approach is actually on its way to people.
You’re welcome, Semira! So glad it resonated with you!
Hi Karolina,
Thank you so much for these free mini courses
I’m so excited to join your ‘animal emotions 2018’ course.
Everybody with animals in ther life, should see this ❤️
You’re welcome, Anne – and welcome to the “big” course, too! 🙂
Thank you Karolina,
I am so glad to have found your mini course, and I will happily sign up for your Animal Emotions course. I found you easy to understand and follow and it was new and interesting stuff. I have run a dog daycare centre for 15 years, and a certified Novice Obedience trainer since 2011.
I think of myself as a behaviourist enthusiast, with no real training in the subject, just the many years of studying the dogs and learning a lot of why dogs do what they do. You finally put meaning to some of it, and so much more. I look forward to learning the rest.
Time is not something I have a lot of, but I will do my best to keep up with the course, and dedicate the time needed to get through it. I’m very excited to be a part of your class.
Thanks again!
Michelle
Michelle, so glad that the content resonated with you – and welcome to the full course! 🙂
I looooove your videos why emotions matter. I am sure I will take the Animal emotions course soon!!!!
Many thanks
Glad to hear it! 🙂
Thanks for sharing your informative mini course. Could you tell me what we get at the end of completing the full course? Is it recognised by an accrediting body as I am thinking of using my diplomas in canine behaviour and coaching to start a canine behaviourist business in rural France where I live concentrating on rescue dogs and their rehabilitation and behavioural problems owners may face.
Many thanks
You get a certificate of completion and 10 CEU points from the IAABC (if you’re a member there). I could probably organize points from other organizations too, if interesting – just let me know!
I loved this mini course. It resonates ao well worh my own experiences with my animals. I have 15 former Turkish street dogs and 7 cats along with 2 donkeys and a horse. They all just happened to me too. I didn’t go looking for animals they all found me one way or another. Some I found and removed from dire circumstances and others were left at my place . I would love to take the full course. I’m sure it would be so helpful. However I’m just not in a position to do so at this time. My work and other commitments take up a lot of time Hopefully next time it will work. Thank so much for sharing this mini course. I look forward to the next opportunity to learn more.
Cheers
Sandy Winfield
Thanks Sandy – so glad you enjoyed this training! 🙂
Thank you only just watched the first video and already so pleased I have found you. I run an animal rescue in the uk, I have two lovely dogs and a 98 yr old tortoise. looking forward to watching the rest as I think you can help maybe with my naughty dog called Joy, and the rabbits and guinea pigs… they are not naughty but misunderstood 🙂 my rescue is called The Littlest Rescue in Bristol UK. :* xxx
Glad you’re enjoying the video! 🙂
I am looking at doing this 10 week course, just doing my budget at the moment to see if I can afford it. I know I have to be quick.
But already your little free course has helped me realise why some of my fur family has reacted the way they have and given me some more ideas on how to deal with it.
I remember the way my two donkey geldings used to play, people used to come and tell me I needed to separate them as they were trying to kill each other! But they were just having fun and if either one of them had had enough and stopped the other would stop straight away as well. They also used whatever was in the paddock in their play as well. Unfortunately one of them died a couple of years back and the two jennies that he is in with are not so interested in playing. I have seen it a lot more in geldings, horses as well as donkeys, more than mares. In mares I see the running bucking and dancing and think this may be a type of play. They certainly do this more as a group than on their own
Glad to hear that you’ve had some insights..! In some species, the females actually play more… interesting you find a gender difference in the types of play! 🙂
I have been umming and arring about taking the course but I have decided to sign it for it in the next hour or so 🙂
Already the free course has made me think outside the box from normal horse training.
I have a little TB mare that can get quite anxious, and we have developed a fear of going up the road. She is fine to ride in the paddock and in other arenas, and across my neighbours small farm, but going anywere else has become quite stressful. Many of my horse riding companions just tell me to whip her arse and get on with it. But that is not my way.
I have tried going up the road in hand, and with other horses and she gets so far and then balks and tries to go home. Not bolt or anything like that, but just will not go on, she gets anxoius, and spins and I think if I push her to far she will rear. I have tried riding her quietly through this but this has not really worked very well.
Well twice now I have lead her up the road, go her to certain spots and then used a clicker to let her know she can have a graze and relax a bit, and let her graze till her anxiety reduces, and then we go a bit further, and repeat. In the two times of doing this we have made more progress than anything I have done before. And I think it was using the clicker this way (probably not the right way, but it seems to be working for us) she know then she had done good and can have some fresh green grass. Eating with head down can reduce stress in horses anyway, but the clicker seems to let her know that she got to do this by going where I wanted her to. It was watching your video with the cats and scracthing post and the fear one that made me think of this. So even if I only get one or two more gems, signing up for the course will be worth it. Even if I have to put it on my VISA LOL
Kirsten – great that you’re making such progress! Some things you might try to tweak this:
– don’t go all the way to the reaction spots but stop a bit before then.
– great that you stop for long enough so that she relaxes, this is where the real learning occurs. She’s learning that the current area is safe.
– not sure how much the clicker does used like this, but if it makes you feel OK then keep using it! 🙂 Probably your mood is a factor, too. Best of luck – and welcome to the course! 🙂
I am enjoying your videos, thank you!
I have a dog who was a rescue. He was rounded up from a reservation, put in a cage in a truck and driven across several states, to arrive at our home malnourished, with mange and other issues. This required several car trips over the next month to visit the vet to receive unpleasant and painful treatment.
He is now healthy and a happy member of our family. Because we have a large property, and our vet comes to our house for treatment, he essentially never has to ride in a car, but when he does, he gets carsick. I have worked (for several years now) to slowly desensitize him, by first just sitting in the car receiving treats with the engine not running, then starting the car, then short rides with happy endings, etc. Sometimes he now rides with no signs of fear or discomfort, but other times he vomits almost right away. I haven’t figured out the difference or how to predict this, which makes him a less than pleasant companion in the car.
I was wondering if you have any suggestions of anything else I might try?
Thank you!
Rebecca
Hi Rebecca, sounds like you’re doing a lot of things right..! Could he be car sick? Some animals suffer from motion sickness too…
Karolina,
Thank you for sharing this content. I have two cats who have been good friends since I adopted them 4 years ago. One of them (tabby) recently spent 3 days at the vets and when she returned the other cat (black) rejected her. She immediately started hissing, growling and fighting her. I’ve followed some advice and separated them. Slowly reintroduced them through closed doors, with items containing each other’s scents, etc. Its been almost 2 weeks and my black cat is still incredibly fearful and raging. After watching the videos I think I might have to go back a few steps. Any tips would be great
So sorry to hear about this. Have you tried Feliway Friends – a momma hormone that helps multi-household cats get along together?
It would be nice if the videos played.
Dear Anita, try another device, or check your internet connection. 🙂
I found this mini-course to dovetail beautifully with the methods I use to train dogs, and being a big geek over these things, I’m quite intrigued.
My dog training began with a troubled mixed breed who I now see was frightened from the start. What I saw as crazy puppy was in reality terror. She was 8 before I found the training that has helped to calm her mind.
From you, I see a bit deeper. The Play aspect could perhaps help my dog with her troubled greeting ritual. And your comments regarding animals enjoying places they once played in as good or neutral while places they felt aversives being something they avoid really grabbed my attention as well.
I had thought i would take the mini-course only, but after sleeping on it (we mammals do process things while sleeping), I now feel I should join the full course. After all, it fits my personal motto of Stay Curious. And I am.
🙂 So glad you decided to join me for the full course – welcome!
I’m curious too – and always learn a lot from doing these courses!
My beagle, Whisky, was big on play and I had always encouraged it. He doesn’t like toys but always preferred running and a bit of wrestling. Now he is 10 years old and rarely plays. Once or twice in 2 months when the weather is really good. Is it just because he’s old? Because it is not like he can’t physically. He is still very agile when he wants to be. What can I do to get him to play a bit more frequently?
Hmm. Maybe you should get him checked up? If he used to play a lot as an adult and now doesn’t as a senior, he could have some medical issue that’s not so obvious – pain perhaps? Most mammals play the most when they’re really young, but dogs are notoriously playful for retaining that playful behaviour into adulthood.
Hello Karolina!
Love, Love, Love this!!!! I have just graduated from the Gurney Institute of Animal Communication and work with so many animals that live in fear. Often the communication is enough to help them through their crisis, but just as often it isn’t. If i could help the human clients learn how to aid their animals with your insights, it would be sooooo beneficial! I would like to apply for your scholarship as it is completely out of my budget at this time, but perhaps i could trade for a communication or two for someone that you feel would benefit from my services?
I have a Jack Russell Terrier, 4 horses, and a cat. As well a many neighbor dogs that walk with me. My Jack is very fearful traveling in a vehicle. Although, i’m finding that playing a name game with treats with him while we travel is helping, I know that there is more that can be done to help him. He is a sweet wonderful boy and love to take him with me everywhere, but really want it to be a good experience for him as well.
I do hope you will consider me as one of your scholarship applicants because what you do is so very exciting to me and I am always “seeking” to learn as much about animals as I can so that I can help as many animals and people as I can. Thank you for this amazing opportunity and your incredible generosity! Much love!!!!!!
Hi Karoline
The training is very interesting and easy to follow, thanks so much.
I have a 2yr old, intact miniature poodle boy named Bello who is very friendly, happy & well socialized (with all kinds of other people, our cat and other dogs.)
I find playing with him myself an awkward thing as even though he plays well with other dogs (and the cat) he doesn’t seem to be motivated to play with me (chase a ball, or tug o war, or seek a treat). So I don’t tend to really engage or initiate play with him.
He just seems to enjoy following me everywhere, just being in my company. Should I be trying more?
Thanks!
… if you already have a great relationship then maybe you wouldn’t gain so much by adding this dimension. Still. I have a friend who plays very creatively with her dog – it’s fabuluos to see. Hide-and-seek games? Agility? This is timing out right now but Patricia McConnell usually writes intersting things: https://www.patriciamcconnell.com/theotherendoftheleash/how-do-you-play-with-your-dog
I have just watched the play video. It’s very interesting how effective play can be in training. I have horses and cats. I notice much more play with adult cats than I do with adult horses – how different do you think the importance of play is between predator and prey species? The horses tend to just run and stretch their legs a bit after a period of confinement, whereas the cats definitely enjoy a play session on a regular basis.
Interesting question! I don’t know if this has been studied and quantified, but one might expect the predators to be more easily engage in “hunting-games” and object play. Then again, I guess we’ve all seen those videos of horses or cattle chasing a ball..? 😉
I see quite a lot of play in horses. Yes, the ball or catch the bag can really bring out the “I’m gonna hunt you down”- mode in horses and, I believe, will really increase confidence and agility, but I’ve also seen particularly geldings and stallions play for long periods of time with each other. They’ll play somewhat similar games to dogs and cats biting and nipping, rearing, racing and such. What I’ve seen with mares is usually different. They’ll definately also get their predator mask on and clearly set out to catch and stomp on bag etc, but their interactive play seems to be more …hmm, mental than the males? Have you seen this also?
Yes my horses play like that too. Anzac will put his front feet on Brons rump. They buck and run. Roll together. Sam loves to play with dogs in a chasing was he chases them! Bite each other affectionately. One day as Sam passed Anzac he just tapped him on the rump with his back leg and kept going. Anzac likes to dominate the big ball laying on it, biting it and generally running amok with it. Sam likes to put his feet on and in things and follow. How do you play with them as a person? We are not able to play on the same level as they do with each other. I think target training is encouraging seeking behaviour but what about play with horses?
Great question – staying safe is your biggest concern, of course. I have seen some running games with people and horses but that could potentially get dangerous with some individuals. Simply being the PLAY faciliator, or being present when they’re in the PLAY state, will “rub off” on you to some extent, of course. Maybe some of the horse people will find this question and pitch in?
Hello Karolina,
Thanks for your answer
I cannot anywhere find the Price of your extrnded animal emotion Care videos ??
Kind regards Lise
The full course, Animal Emotions, is 247 USD plus VAT – that’s added as you check out and depends on your location..!
Thank you for your informative and enjoyable mini course. As you can see from my video my dog used to be an obsessive light/shadow chaser even looking for lights when they weren’t there. Shortly after I made the video (she was 3) she shut down completely and eventually at 4 she was diagnosed with HD, but even with a rehab programme the light chasing still emerged periodically and at 5 she had an MRI which showed she had lesions In the gluteus muscles. The periods of light chasing seemed to tie in with pain. She is now on painkillers full time and I have to be very careful how much exercise she has. I was once told that chasing lights would release endorphins which would dull the pain so that was why she did it. Having watched the 4th video I am trying to get my head around it all. She was obviously self reinforcing but was she doing it because she was In seeking mode looking for pain relief? She was also a very anxious dog as a pup but is now much more optimistic. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=gfQ2qu53N7Q We have built up her confidence quite a bit and she is a much happier dog now https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rahthUP4LGI. I would be really interested to hear you thoughts on Maddy. Thanks.
It’s hard to know what was going on inside her head – I know that SEEKING in overdrive leads to compulsive behaviour so that may be it, for sure!
I love to use parallel play as part of my reactive dog course. Once the owners have the skills to manage their dogs I have an indoor a class with visual blockers and the dogs begin to play with their owners behind the screens next to other dogs. We training and playIn combination typically by the end of the class depending on the dogs there is no visual blocker and the dogs are playing in the same room but separately. For the people who continue Practicing . I’ve actually had dogs learn to play soccer with a yoga ball –
together and even graduating to off leash play becoming true buddies.
In just a few weeks they’re excited to come to the training center happy they understand dogs signal fun stuff is about to begin… Then we start generalizing by mixing in new dogs it’s quite amazing.
Interesting! So, just to get this right, the owner/dog teams plays together, first separated by a barrier, and then the barrier is gradually dropped..? Sounds fabulous – thanks for sharing! 🙂
Yes.. Yes in the beginning they play games just with their owners behind a divider. Then they take turns peeking out beyond divider. One dog stays playing with owner.. the other walks out practicing and emergency uturn.. then they switch. Gradually barrier is taken down. And they play in simultaniously in parallell.. eventually I introduce playing together one touches ball then the other..
It’s great because the play are.actually training skills to focus on owner in new and challenging situations plus benefit of play therapy for desensitizing.. Owners also learn what to do with their dog in this situations and build muscle memory..and realize their dog cN do it.
Thanks for explaining your process in more detail! 🙂
This sounds awesome. I’m doing something similar with my horse and the lead mare in her herd. Teaching them to play soccer (though with a big ball). We’re only at the beginning though where they can do it individually and a few passes to each other. I’m glad to hear that it will also help their relationship. 🙂 Thank you for sharing.
I’m glad to share anything about the structure I use for free.. if you’d like…please reach out
Hello Karolina,
Thank you for sharing your knowledge about animal (and human) behaviour.
My Tessa who is an Airedale Terrier and the neighbour’s dog who is a German shepherd has a (funny/bad?) habit of chasing full speed up and sometimes down our shared fence on each their side barking. This happens when fx I go for a walk with Tessa and the other dog is in their garden. When we turn the corner the dogs can meet and sometimes do and they can also play a little together but on each their side of the fence they sound like real enemies. The neighbours try to prevent the ‘chase’ I merely try to make Tessa take it easy. Why do they do this?
Kind regards Lise andTessa
Hi Lise and Tessa! There may be several reasons why dogs start fence running – territorial behaviour, happy excitement or social deprivation… Find some ideas on how to address this behaviour here: https://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/dog-fence-running/
Thank you for the free course, I was about to say how disappointed I am that my budget doesn’t run to joining the full course, as I have gained so much from the free course. I just heard you mention the scholarship, and would like to apply please .
I have a dog, and 4 horses, I am already putting into practice what I’ve learnt here.
Understanding why my dog has a firework phobia, and starting to work on helping over come it
thank you xxxxx
Dianne, please make your scholarship application at the scholarship page: https://illis.se/en/ae2018-scholarships/
Best of luck! 🙂
Thanks, the seeking episode gave me lots of new training ideas.
Great, I’m glad to hear that! 🙂
I’ve only listened to the first video so far and absolutely love this. My little Lucy, a 2 1/2 years old 8 pound Pomeranian has serious fear issues that seemed to have started last year when she was attacked by a neighborhood West highland terrier that we knew. We often walked together with several other dogs and their owners in the neighborhood. As we came upon their front yard and the Westie and owner were coming out of their gate to meet with a few of us there on the front lawn, something happened and the Westie lashed out at my Lucy and bit her in the eye. Poor baby screemed as she lunged away from Biff. I immediately picked her up and held her closed, giving her kisses and whispering what I thought would be comforting loving words to her as we began to power walk home. My boyfriend was there and held the leash of Lucy’s sister, Sophi the Pomeranian (litter mates). I held Lucy all the way home. We did go to the vet and she was put on antibiotics…Well that was the beginning of my happy little Pomeranians becoming fearful, neurotic dogs whenever a dog passes by our home (which is quite often). Walks have become very stressful, super barky at every dog, especially bigger dogs. I’m always trying to find paths on our walks where I can avoid dogs but living in a condominium complex with many dogs, it’s almost impossible. Every condo we pass that has a dog in it that begins to bark at us for passing by, sets my girls off. I’ve tried different ways to try and stop the incessant barking but it mostly doesn’t work. Some days I feel helpless about it and do nothing. At home, I’ll shake a can of coins and say, “uh uh!!” with a stern voice and it works most of the time. When we’re out on walks though, all I can do is change direction with them and just get away from the other dog.
Sorry to hear about this – what a terrible experience! I’d try a behaviour consultant, who can help discuss good solutions for all the scenarios that you describe. I’d avoid rattling the can and using a stern voice – this problem is most certainly fear-based and corrections might make it worse. Also, check out video 2 – there are some suggestions there! Best of luck!
Making the most of the wet weather here by enjoying listening to your videos! A friend who has also watched them posed the question of whether the risk of sensitisation to other stimuli that can occur when there are more extreme events (like the thunderstorm example you gave) may account for why there are some veterinarians and behaviourists who recommend we do not try to comfort a very fearful animal. I think over time it’s come to be believed (mistakenly) that this might “positively reinforce” the fear response (if the animal appreciated being comforted) but I wonder if its origins might have been the possibility of sensitising the animal to our touch, or the animal feeling restrained by being held or cuddled when very afraid in a storm or fireworks?
Absolutely – that’s one of the potential reasons why petting may be problematic. I discuss this topic here: https://illis.se/en/dog-owners-to-pet-or-not-to-pet-during-thunderstorms-or-fireworks/
Karolina, thank you for this series. I have 2 questions related to Video 2. The scenario is the escalated behaviour between my dog and the one next door, mostly my dog who seems enraged by the other one which really just stands quietly on the other side of the fence. We have a high fence with small gaps and have recently double fenced in an attempt to reduce the behaviour. This has not made a huge difference and is difficult for us because it cuts off one of our entrances. My questions are: (1) why does my dog appear to seek out the other dog. She will wait hours for him to come out if given the opportunity. 2) what would you do?
Christina, you’re welcome!
1. It depends. Behaviour must be understood in context: what happens that triggers behaviour, and what happens as a consequence of behaviour? What is your animal’s general baseline mood state, and what flavour of emotion is he experiencing when enraged? Do these dogs know each other, and if so, how do they interact in other contexts? Without knowing more, my answer would be a guess at best. I’m not a dog person so I don’t have any personal experience of this type of situation.
2. I’d try to assess the situation and understand the function of the behaviour. Perhaps discuss with the neighbor about meeting up in another context and allowing the dogs to build a positive relationship. Perhaps do some counterconditioning in the problem situation. Perhaps activate the dog so that “waiting-for-the-other-dog” becomes an uninteresting activity… problems can be addressed at many levels. Don’t hesitate to get professional help – just make sure that the person uses science-based, humane techniques!
I was very interested in your courses, but when you revealed that you are not a Dog person I now have my doubts about the usefulness of this course . I am a dog person and scientists the world over agree that Dogs are unique when compared with all other animals. Dogs function and react much differently that other animals. Science agrees that dog have the most “plastic genes” of all animals and this allows humans to manipulate Dogs in a manner that is not possible with all other animals. Therefore, I believe that Dogs need to be handled specifically to accommodate the uniqueness of the species it’s self. Things that work on all other animals may or may not work on Dogs and I believe there is science to bear this out. I would respectively prefer to learn about dogs from someone who specializes in the training and behavior of dogs exclusively. I have however enjoyed you first 4 videos and I thank you for putting them out for all to see. I would recommend your videos to people that have pets or animals other than dogs. I believe that many of your thoughts and ideas will work on dogs, but I believe, as a whole Dogs need to be handled a little differently. Dogs are an entirely different animal than all the others.
Hi Evan, thanks for voicing your concern! Many of my previous students have been dog owners and dog trainers – and there are a lot of dog discussions, just as there are horse discussions and parrot discussions, on my courses.
The learning principles and behaviour mechanisms remain the same for frogs, birds and mammals – it’s how they perceive the world and the triggers they respond to that’s different. Just as dogs are different from other species, cats are different too. Or horses. Or rats. My courses are generally about the things they have in common, even though we discuss some of the things that set them apart, too.
Wow! I can say that I agree and probably understood the principles presented here, but could never could articulate them so succinctly. Two things I would like to explore:
1. my son purchased an older 3-5 month sheltie/collie X. He is a dream dog in many ways and the breeder sold him because he was getting beat up by her other dogs. He loves to play and is overeager with other dogs. He does not accept the growls and snaps other dogs use to say “I don’t want to play”. I don’t know how to get him to understand.
2. It seems the obedience training of reward and discipline that I am familiar with from my past has been thrown out with the bath water. I feel that dogs, like children need to learn the word “NO”, and not just treat and positive reinforcement. Am I wrong?
Glad you found this useful! 🙂 About your questions, I’m not a dog person so I have no personal experience in this, but I would probably see if I could drain some energy by engaging in object play (tug/balls/sticks). Learning to play appropriately is mostly done at a young age but would probably occur over time with good mentor dogs, too.
About the “no”, it’s a complex topic since in order to work, the word needs to be a conditioned punisher: that the animal knows that continuing whatever behaviour is going on when the “no” is heard will lead to something aversive happening. Punishment is difficult to do right and has so many potential negative side-effects so I’d avoid it for this reason alone – except in very special circumstances. I write more about this here: https://illis.se/en/punishment-problems/
“No” is not very exact and doesn’t fully explain what you want your animal to do, hence not very effective. Can even be very damaging and potentially dangerous as Karolina explains. If you think about in what situation you feel you need the “no” you can most likely find a better suitable positive reinforced solution. I.e. “leave it” that Karolina explains in her link. It is hard to change how one trains, but as soon as you see the rewards of positive reinforcements even in traditional punishment situations you will forever abandon the traditional “no”.
Hi – about signing up for the full course. I don’t have a Paypal account (nor do I wish to have one). Is there another way I can pay for the course? For instance , if you’re in Sweden, bankgiro or Swish?
Hi I just clicked on the details for the full course and notice it says videos are subtitled in English … does this mean that the actual video lessons are in another language unlike these free ones? Sorry if that is a daft question but I would really struggle with that!
I have the same question and would like to know if the videos and audio are in Swedish only before signing up. Also is it USD so I can workout the cost as I’m in the UK.
Have loved the free video series. Thank you.
Donna, so glad you’ve liked the training! None of this material is in Swedish – it’s all in English. The price is in USD…
Thank you Karolina for your reply.
Thank you for this great mini course 😀 I work as an ethologist and being aware of the animals emotions is a key stone in my work, so I am so happy to see this and learn even more from it.
Thank you!
You’re welcome! 🙂
Kalorina, thank you for the videos. During my applied behavior study, I learnt about the emotions including those in your videos, but the way you presented gave me different perspective. In my dog training classes and consultations I have been using more play, games, enrichment exercises while focusing on giving dogs choices. So your videos gave me more confidence in the way I teach. Thank you!
You’re welcome – so happy to have given you some insights! 🙂
I wrote a reply about video 3 and it disappeared. I am so frustrated with the link.
Sorry to hear that – sometimes the capcha times out. If you’d care to try again, next time write your message in some other application and then copy it into the comments’ box.
We have 3 rescue dogs who don’t seem to know how to play. They like puzzle games where they gave to find the treat, but don’t seem to know how to chase a ball or play with a tug toy. Any tips on teaching them how to play?
I’m not a dog person so I have no practical experience in this, but some thoughts that come to mind is to get to watch other competent dogs play and pick it up through social learning. Another to set up a play date with a playful competent dog – ideally one-on-one. Social play is important – not just object play! 🙂
Dear Karolina
Thank you for sharing your insights on animal behaviour with the public. I appreciate it and found it interesting to watch. I also see that some/ much of what you present pertains to people: Fear, learned helplessness, play, and positivity changing the animal to a healthy animal. Humans are much the same way.
I valued how you inform us to be astute observers to our animals giving us signals on the behaviour displayed, demystifying the emotional state. This is important. As pet guardians we try to understand our animals, and this is where we need to be mindful, so we may read our animal the right way.
I took away much information from your video and would like it if you would continue videos of this nature so that a a pet guardian we may all improve our animal understanding.
Well, humans are animals too… so yes, all the core emotions apply to us, too! 🙂 Glad you’re enjoying these videos!
Hi Karolina,
I was new to horses and needed to give mine an oral dose of antiworm medicine. People had given me advise about acting confident and moving smoothly but every time I started to put the big plastic oral syringe near her mouth I could see her getting tense and edgy. I asked her previous owner (an experienced horse lover) to watch and she said I wasn’t showing care/love/reassurance. With more guidance I started talking to my horse, telling her it’d be OK, I wasn’t going to hurt her, it wouldn’t be a big deal, I loved her and so on. I swear she just let me do it like she was thinking, “Go ahead I’m tired of waiting.” I know they don’t understand words much (or at all) but there was communication and trust.
Just taking your time and not rushing can sometimes do wonders, too! Perhaps for future situations, you’d want to do a little counterconditioning and systematic desensitization..?
Thank you for making this video series available. Good timing for me. We have just taken on a rescue golden retriever aged around 3 years old. We have had just over 3 weeks so still learning about him, but already noticed he will bark when he sees dogs when he is in the boot of the car and when we are out walking him. He tends to bark almost as soon as he sees them and will lunge, but if a dog comes around the corner which means he hasn’t had time to bark, he seems to be better. Will have a sniff and move on.
You asked for examples of mis reading the signals – This has happened twice (with both male Labradors). He sees a dog coming towards us, barks and lunges. We ask the owner of the dog if it’s ok for us to introduce the dogs, they say yes and then our dog lunges/goes for the other dog in what I would call in an aggressive way. But on other occasions he has been totally fine. Said hello and moved on.
Most likely consulting with a behaviourist as want to avoid it escalating. Have introduced clicker training over last few days, but trying to distract a dog who is pulling (on a Y fronted harness, with double ended leads) is a bit of a challenge when walking alone.
Any tips gratefully received. 🙂
Sounds great that you’re consulting a professional – getting help early, before things escalate and get out of hand! You may want to check out BAT with Grisha Stewart. http://grishastewart.com/bat-overview/
Hi, HNKK,
I’m in the exact same situation as you described. We have two rescue dogs, male and female (and siblings) and of these two the male behaves exactly as you described your golden retriever. In our family the female is the boss and the male is extremely concious of her and behaves mirroring her mood and state. We started walking them alone to build better contact with each one. Our male is very curious and hands out a multitude of signals and expressions so he is easier to read than the female, but he also builds up stress very easily from various daily stuff. During our first year I’ve learned that the barking and lunging can be a symptom of different and several issues. For starters your distance to the other dog is too short if he already barks (and it might be a looong distance). This behaviour is an outburst of energy and stress, which can be caused by fear/uncertainty/insecurity and when on leash the dog doesn’t have the safe escape option and he knows it so he can’t handle it and sort of bursts all tension out. Apparently another case is an extremely social and exited guy who gets so intensely exited about the other dog and being on leash, gets frustrated and it all comes out again as barking and lunging. Attacking is also stress behaviour, our male might lunge at his sister if very stressed (which he builds up fairly easily) while walking and seeing a trigger (e.g. a cat or another dog). Third thing is that because dogs have the natural insitinct to flee from danger, walking nice and calm on leash is mainly a trained skill. You need to teach your dog to relax on leash, build calm trust and make him feel safe so that he ends up trusting you and mirroring your bahavior, like our male mirrors his sister. Counter conditioning explained in the videos is your tool to changing your dog’s mood/emotions when seeing other dogs (the trigger) and desensitization to collect experiences of comfortable state when seeing others (distance is key here) and teaching that it doesn’t mean lifethreatning danger. Consistent and confident work with a close eye on the dogs body language will gradually allow you to get closer and closer to other dogs and eventually walk by calmly without any troubles, muscles loose, tail relaxed and ears back etc. Your dog is not aggressive or too fearful as sudden encounters go well (no time to bark) that sounds like he gets nervous only from dogs further away or getting closer/towards you so it could be that he is social and exited, but insecure and maybe even not used to walking on a leash. (How does your dog behave off leash? I’d guess much better 😉 Keep also a close eye on your own body language and what your dog might pick up from you (in dog terms)..tension/pulling in leash creates tension and alerts the dog, fast walking is nervous – slow walking is calming and confident and remember that he can hear your heartbeat too so it’s difficult to fool calmness. It’s taken me a year to learn these things and the sensitivity in subtle expressions in communicating with our dogs and now it feels like we constantly talk (without words). I hope you find even something useful in my writing that could help you and your dog understand eachother better and have a happy loving life. Also, note that it can take days, weeks or months for a rescued dog to settle in a new home, recover from stress from all the changes and behave “normally”. Dogs are not very capable of concentrating on training when under stress so give him also time.
These videos are amazing and right to the point!!! Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks for sharing, Nina – and very sound advise, too! 🙂
The clicker and the treats are not there to distract the dog from barking and lunging. If that happens your distance is too short and you’re kind of late. Think of it this way, treats are for rewarding good behavior. If you’re too close to the trigger you get bad behavior. Increase distance and you can let the dog see and pay attention to the other dog and while he’s still calm (while seeing the other) give treats to reward. If he then starts barking stop giving treats right away.
The clicker is a tool you can use to mark the wanted good behavior if you’re slow in giving treats at the moment it happens. The dog will learn that a click means treats and with repetition will connect it to the action that caused the click.
When I do this I get a click and a click means a treat 😉
Hope this helps!
Hi. I have just watched video nr. 2. I have a Jack Russel, He is 16 months old. I wil for sure start using the cheese-method more systematically in my training. He has a few fears, that i have not been able to stop, but i have not been looking for the triggers. Fx the clippers: i have been giving him treats to teach him that the clippers is good, but i Can see now that i have to go back to the absolute basics and get to the point where he innitiates the contact. It seems so simple, but somehow it have been difficult for me. He is also fearfull of handeling, the way they do it at the wet. He likes going to the wet, but the handeling is his worst nightmare. I wish i had the oppurtunity to go to the wet for a courtesycall, but it is not possible because of the distance. Not right now anyway. But i Will for sure have this video in mind, and i might even watch it a few more times. It gave me a lot to Think about. Thank you. I look forward to watching the rest of the videos. Best regards, Rikke
Rikke, thanks! Perhaps your neighbour could play the role of the vet? It’s not the same smells and other stimuli as the real thing, but at least having a stranger handle the dog is a middle step. Counterconditioning is difficult to get right. The scary thing needs to happen before the nice thing, but at such a low level-intensity that there’s no fear response. Don’t increase the intensity until you see that the dog gets excited about the scary thing – that it predicts the food. You want a conditioned emotional response, not that he shuts down.
My husband and I acquired a puppy two years ago. She is now 2. She is a tiny Maltese/Yorkie mix. Being brand new to dog ownership, we have made mistakes. We have got a dog who has fear aggression. She barks and barks when she encounters people and she has been fence running with the dog next door for the past year. She has never met the dog, and I don’t think that would go well. She gets really, really worked up when it is out in its yard and I am forced to bring her inside. She has been scared by large dogs running at her on a few occasions when we have walked along a wooded path.
As for the play, we are making progress playing with her indoors. We throw a ball or a stuffed toy down the hall and she will run to get it. Just recently, she is learning to bring it back more often than not. She plays better with me than with my husband.
Last weekend, I babysat my daughter’s dog who is about the same size and age. My little Bella would not play with the other dog even though the other dog wanted to play. I’ve noticed this behaviour in a few other occasions. She doesn’t interact and play with other dogs.
Not sure how to correct these negative behaviours.
Otherwise, she is adorable and we love her to bits.
Hi Manon, it sounds like you have your hands full..! My recommendation would be to get the help of an experienced dog behaviour consultant, who could help with exercises and general training tips. Make sure to find one that doesn’t use corrections – no punishment!
I have been using counter conditioning with my Cattledog for over a year. He is slowly overcoming his reactive behavior towards bikes and other dogs, but has now started guarding me (and his treat source) when people approach. Would love to know what to do.
Treat “people approaching” as if they were “bike”? Someone approaches – he gets treats? Might even get treats from the approaching people? If it escalates, I’d try to get professional help to sort out what is driving that behaviour…
Hi Karolina
When my female Cattle Dog was a puppy, she was asleep and got woken up by firework. As a result Emily is now scared of fireworks and Thunder. Any suggestions please?
Also do you have any suggestions specially for cattle dogs. I have 2, Bentley and Emily (as mentioned above, they are very cheeky and headstrong. They don’t always listen to me.
Also Emily is obsessed with one toy and will attack Bentley when he goes near it.
Thank you
I wrote a blog post about fear of noise, find it here: https://illis.se/en/nine-ways-to-reduce-firework-and-thunder-phobia-in-dogs/
Learn to use positive reinforcement when training – that usually gets the animals’ attention, they start focusing on the handler. If paying attention pays off, they do it!!
Best of luck!
Hi Karolina,
I have two rescue dogs. One of them was never socialized and when I first got her in January she was fearful and I was told she never played with another dog. Well just lately we met a very nice lady with her dog and Sasha was barking like crazy as usual but it did not scare them away , they started to play together beautifully so every time we meet our dogs play together . Since then I saw a change in my Sasha she is not as fearful and is more obedient and of course much happier. I was not sure if it was the play time that was helping Sasha so now you confirmed this for me . Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for sharing your story – heartwarming to hear how well it worked out! 🙂
Hello. We have a rescue dog who is nearly 4 we have had him for nearly 2 years and are at our wits end. Out dog is agressive we found out after we got him that the rescue centre he is from lost thier charity number for re homing dangerous dogs and when we got in touch with them about his behaviour they told us to have him destroyed . After watching your trainging video i strongly feel that he is in a state of consent fear, ranging from low to high. Is there more we can do to solve this through play? And can this be done while on a lead rope?(at the moment we have to keep him muzzled and on his lead due to our fear of something happening) we dont want to have him destroyed untill we know we have given him every chance possible especially as i feel the aggressive behavior is down to humans,(mainly his previous owners but i fear also us) thank you for your time.
Katie, it sounds like you need professional help, someone who can assess behaviour in context and try to understand what’s going on – perhaps combining medication with behaviour modification training! Make sure to find a trainer who uses humane methods, and knows the meaning of positive reinforcement, counterconditioning and systematic desensitization. Best of luck!
loving this.
online courses can be so hit and miss, this is definitely a hit! ive shared the link with a few people who im sure will benefit from it.
ive worked with and owned dogs for 20+ years now and rarely had any major behavioural issues passed having the dog a few days.
never been able to explain how i do it though!
video three really nailed it on the head for me, play (and simple friendly and loving affection) has been my go to for basic training. the only only thing so far ive found that these dont work on is a very high prey drive coupled with the superb ability of the dog to catch and dispatch his prey! … but then i do wonder if his self service diet of fresh kill snacks was the secret to his extraordinarily long and healthy life! (labrador sized mixed breed, stubbornly active till almost 18 years old)
looking forward to video three, im sure there is going to be a learning curve for me here
Thanks, I’m glad you’re enjoying this! 🙂
Thank you, Karolina, for sharing your knowledge and experience! ❤
It always surprises me, how it is possible to find new points of view from a familiar topic, but that is the case, again – I got more ideas, thanks to you, especially for battling with the fear issue.
I have a long history with dogs as pets, and lately have focused on rescued dogs. Until now, with older dogs, I haven’t faced the real fear issue (separation anxiety, health issues, etc. ) – with this last one we struggle with it. But not in the traditional type of fear manifestation..
This male german shepherd came to me when he was 10 months old, now we have 1,5 years together i.e. he is now almost 2,5 yrs old. It was a really good reminder to seek the ‘slow down’ stage and to calm him /redirect focus then. This dog seems to see more than there is, he sees bogeys here and there, especially when it is a bit less light/dark. That is yet easily handled and managed, but he tends to see bogeys in humans, too. He is very clever and playful, really good to combine 1+1=something etc.
He can switch quite suddenly from calm -ish to raging jumping barking mad dog. I may have discussed (I go there to for trying to desensitize him) with a person on streets a while, maybe walked together a bit, and still, quit suddenly he may see ‘something’ and try to attack. Well, I mean with attack a behavior which looks similar to dogs in the protection training when the have stopped the ‘criminal’ – barking in front of the face, jumping etc. I don’t think he would bite, but that cannot be tested.. At least I have read it as fear? Maybe I am in a wrong direction?
It is a strong possibility that my dog has been in these protection trainings as a pup, 6 months old, and part explanation may come from there. He is called the Diplomat in our village, since he is so perfect with dogs and people with dogs. The only issue is this odd behavior, and the reason we have not hade any visitors at home during our time together , just dont’t want to risk anything.
Am I missing the emotion cues or on wrong tracks here? Otherwise I will just continue with going out to meet people and try to get good experiences as much as possible, and try to avoid the bad ones.
But just once again, thank you for this free course and for the new aspects to emotions!!
You’re welcome, Johanna! I don’t work with dogs, personally, so I haven’t seen the type of behaviour you’re talking about – have you seen a dog behaviour specialist about this? I’m thinking medical – pain? Or as you say, some previous training that you’re unaware of? Or fear? Hard to know without seeing it in context – I’d advise you to get help. Best of luck!
Very informative video! LOVE THEM! Learning is awesome!
From a dog training perspective…would the use of play paired with counter conditioning/desensitization enable the dog to get over fear more quickly than just counter conditioning/desensitization alone? I think I may start implementing play into these sessions as well.
Again, thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Just finished the second video, I do use high value treats to positively reinforce scary situations – but only after I was taught by my trainer. Hindsight is wonderful but better late than never. My dog now looks at scary things (usually dogs in close proximity on leads) then looks back to me for a treat. I have now learned to say no when people ask if our dogs can say Hello on the lead. I still feel bad and hate to think what the other owner thinks of me, but my dog remains below threshold. I loved the parrots 🙂
Thank you – I’ll let Stephanie know! 🙂 Great to hear that you’re succeeding so well with your dog. It’s interesting how people assume they can just walk up to a strange dog and start cuddling. It would be real’ creepy if someone did that to us! :-0
The fear video is a gem thank you from Molly (16 months Staffie/ Hunterway cross rescue pup) and me!
Yay, thanks for letting me know! 🙂
I have just watched video 1. You asked for examples of hindsight. I missed the first warning signs with my lead reactive dog. I paid attention when he started verbalising his emotions but completely missed the previous body language. I now have a fantastic behaviourist who pointed out to me all the body language I had missed seeing in my own dog. He never went further than a low growl but maybe, if I had listened and acted upon the missed body language, I could have kept him comfortable and the emotion would not have escalated to vocalisation.
Thanks for sharing! Having a behaviourist on board is great! Video is another tool that will help you identify the early signs..!
Wow! Thankyou so much Karolina!
I have done much traing with treats with a horse trainer in this manner with my horses.
I have a young horse who is nearly 5 who does not like strangers approach her : the vet, osteopath etc they all want to do things with her and she is upset almost straight away and it upsets me too that she is not heard and it appears to ‘the professional ‘ that there is a lack of control & training. (I can trim my horses in complete freedom : no halter/lead/penning up thanks to treats. )
My dentist states very few horses need sedation but points out mine do.
Now i realise it is because my horses are not afraid to show their feelings and have choice. You have just wonderfully made me realise that it is the people who come to her that need to slow down and say hello and make friends with her first (she loves treats). I kind of felt this but have never been strong enough to say it to them!
I have a young person who comes to visit and she can rug my young horse and can give her pats. So she knows a stranger can be nice! It is just that the professionals are not reading the fear escalation. They just expect a horse to stand still and i since i do not train to hold control over them the human needs to work on interacting in a more meaningful way. Your video brings peace to my heart. Thankyou Karolina !
Donna, you’re bringing out an incredibly important point: some professions who engage with animals often don’t know much about behaviour. The Fear Free movement is going through the veterinary profession like wild fire! https://fearfreepets.com/
Also, I think particularly with horses, traditional training dictates that horses should stand still and let strangers do anything to them – typically through corrections, not treats. The change is coming, but it’s still slow! Stand your ground and try to find vets and osteopaths who are willing to slow down..!
I would like to find safe ways to play with my two young horses , but don’t really know how, have seen some instances of it going horribly wrong and getting dangerous, any ideas, please? I have played hunt the carrot with them in the past, just leading them to find bits of carrot, but would welcome other ideas.
Great question – I’m not a horse person so I hope someone else will chime in on this..! Just being present when they play works too… it rubs off on you if your nearby or if you provide the interesting stuff that they can play with… Not to the same extent, but still!
Hi Julie 🙂
I have some ideas. And yes, you’re absolutely right: safety first!
So a way to begin (and to go back to whenever you feel you need it) is to play with protected contact (pc). This means setting up your play area close to a fence. You can be either side. For instance you can put up a round pen where you stay on the inside.
To release the parking brakes I often use a target stick or a long whip with a bag attached to the end – both only for focus points for the horse to follow, not to drive! This is important, because you’ll want the horses to intrically feel the play in order for the good hormones to kick in, not have them frustratedly running about.
I use a clicker to let them know when they’re on the money. If you are not familiar with clicker training or +R, please let me know. At first I click and treat (c+t) for any interest in the target (focus point). Quite quickly they’ll feel inclined to follow it. C+t. Then I add change of direction, as this leads to awesome movements that will become intrinsically motivational and create confidence etc. In the beginning it might be only I walk, but you might be surprised – especially if they’re young and haven’t had too much exposure to +P.
When moving away from pc I offer the opportunity to play with different obstacles like a tilt, podiums, balls to play soccer, Frisbee to retrieve, mattresses or mats (Ikea) (that are absolutely amazing for proprioception) and stuff like that. And here’s the important message: I do not micromanage. I let the horse choose when and where and how! This actually helps “shape” a horse become more willing, have more power, confidence, play drive – and makes them less likely to blow up or become dangerous.
I encourage movements that empower and I encourage movements that calm the nervous system. A great thing my horse knows is that if I exhale and completely let go any energy in me, she’ll stop, put her head down and relax. I play a lot with energy, bringing my energy up and down, both predictably so and instantly. I want her to be okay with both. And she is.
Finally, if your horses stop to graze, let them. You can always ask again. But you want your time together to be without conflict. Or at least a minimum. Be aware of calming signals or if they take a lot of time to process afterwards. You’ll want them to feel good. A little stress may come up, as they try to figure new stuff out, but as Karolina says, you’ll want to keep it to a minimum.
If you have any questions, please write.
Happy play time, Cecilia
Cecilia – thank you SO MUCH for sharing! Love that you’re letting the horse choose – and practice bringing your own energy up and down! Sounds like a fun and non-pushy way to spend time having fun together!
You’re very welcome! I hope Julie finds it helpful.
It is a wonderful way of interacting. ❤️
I am really enjoying the series. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
You’re welcome! 🙂
The third video (on playing) was extremely beneficial. It’s so easy to fall into the DS/CC routine using treats, but it’s so important to remember that play can be an even better reinforcer depending on the dog. Attempting to unravel the patterns of a dog I’m working with, it suddenly hit me while watching the video that PLAY is where all the unexpected friendly interactions occurred! Friendly towards people on walks who have dogs because those people are associated with playing with their dogs (and she LOVES dogs), friendly towards people in certain locations because playing fetch is associated with those locations, and always warming up with select individuals before anyone else because those people always end up playing with her later. Brilliant stuff, thank you so much for this series!
Ah. What a great insight – thank you so much for sharing! And I’m glad you like the videos! 🙂
Great third video as well! 🙂
I play with my dog and horse almost every day. With my horse it’s how we normally interact, and it is to me the best time of the day! 🙂
Oh, could I ask you to respond to Julie – her question about how to play safely with horses? I’m not a horse person so it would be really interesting to hear: what do you do when you play with such a big animal, to stay safe? 🙂
Yes, of course. And thank you for your replies. <3
Dear Karolina
I just finished the second video. I paused and took notes several times. Love this.
I do and have done a lot of preventive training with both my horse and dogs, but never the cats. I’ll make sure to include them moving forward. For instance with trailer loading I started when my horse was 6 mth old clicking and treating every step towards, around and in the trailer, she rocks the tilt, podiums, matresses etc. Anything that increases her self confidence, awareness, proprioception and releases all the deliscious hormones. She’ll gladly trot up into the trailer and can’t wait for me to open it.
That made me smile – thanks for sharing! 🙂
You’re very welcome. I have some on video on Instagram if you’d like to see. 🙂
absolutely! 🙂
https://www.instagram.com/p/BmF5rxxgUJ9/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1q1nm7jq6c21h
A little trailer playing
What a funny video – thanks for sharing! 🙂
Thank you! 🙂
My puppy started one fear stage at 9 month and still had not snapped out of it at 16 month. I am trying clicker training with treats and games to overcome his fear.
Great to hear – I hope you get some ideas from this mini-course, too! 🙂
Thank you so much for doing this, Karolina! I really enjoyed the first video and will watch the second as soon as I’ve answered your question.
I’ll never forget bringing my then 1 yo friesian filly to a woman who had invited me and a group of people and horses to come and play at her playground. Because Luca was only a year old I thought it was quite enough to simply walk around the area sniffing at the different obstacles, a quiet walk inside the arena and then go home. I clearly felt that she was full (mættet) from the experience. She had behaved beautifully and people came up to us telling us so. As we walked calmly towards the trailer the lady who owned the place wanted to do a demonstration of how quickly she could teach a horse to move sideways. +P / -R. And she came and litteraly took the lead from my hand. At the time I was so surpised and unfortunately inclined to just stand back, although I knew we should go home. The woman told my filly to move sideways, pushing her and pushing her. I felt awful. When I finally – maybe after 5-7 minutes – said we need to go now, she dismissed me, and tried again. My filly reacted by rearing and hitting the woman on the head. Fortunately nothing happened to her, but my feeling of having let down my horse stayed with me. The woman reacted by saying that my horse was dangerous and should be better trained. She was a year old!
Today, my horse has quite a lot of autonomy. We almost always train at liberty. At least as much as it gets to be in the fenced in pastures and forest. + R. She is the kindest, most beautiful soul. She offers so much amazing behavior – including a lot she comes up with herself. She’s never reared again since!
With my dogs I also try best I can to helped them feel good, relaxed, and happy. I choose vets who comes home to us when possible, do nervous system stimulation and proprioception for both dogs and horse, and try to be as calm myself as I can.
My dog unfortunately picked up a bad (stressful) habit when she was a pup and my fater in law was watching her. He let the neighbors kids play with her, even though I had asked him not to. They threw stones and little sticks for her to fetch. She is now ten and still picks up stones now and then when visitors come. I usually divert her interest by giving her something else to focus or chew on when people come over, but if I don’t, she’ll be looking for stones. Fortunately she never swallows any, but her teeth are beginning to show. Hoping there’ll be some insight to how to deal with stuff like that.
Mange tak. <3
Cecilia
I often don’t react immediately in situations like that – it’s not until afterwards that I find the words, or even realize why I’m upset – so I can really relate!
really enjoyed this, it has reminded me of what i should be doing re nails on two of my dogs. my “teacher” dog is no longer with us and two recent dogs have nail phobias but no other dog to learn from, i really should work on one first separately until he is relaxed with the procedure!
its a shame i can’t get the first video to play
Glad you enjoyed this training, and got some ideas for how to proceed with your dog!
If you’re having problem accessing the video, try again using a stationary device (internet access and speed is important)!
I’m using a mack book, on wifi at home, not sure what you mean by stationary device! i was able to watch the second video but the first wouldn’t play
ok, ive sussed it out!
just incase anyone else has this issue
im using a very old macbook that does not support the newer versions of safari, it was opening the links automatically in the old safari, that wont allow most videos to playback.
so i copied and pasted the link into google chrome, hey presto, it works
Ah! Great, thanks for sharing! 🙂
Wonderful video. I do the same while cutting my dogs’ nails, lots of treats. But how can I help a dog who is fearful of thunders. She starts trembling long before I can hear the thunder. She refuses treats and all kinds of cuddling. She refuses to sit or lay down and tries to get out from the house, I guess it is a flight response.
Sorry to hear that – such a hard time on everyone! I wrote a blog post with over 30 tips of handling noise phobia, you’ll probably find something (or a combination) that works here: https://illis.se/en/nine-ways-to-reduce-firework-and-thunder-phobia-in-dogs/
Karolina’s taster sessions are simply amazing. They are literally packed with really good advice and information, all relayed in a layman way so really easy to follow and understand. I’m sure there will be a purchase option at the end of the free video sessions and I will be buying!
Thank you Elaine – so glad to hear that this resonates with you! 🙂
Hi
I have an Italian Spinone who reacts to runners, cyclists and anything that moves with speed. He barks and chases it. What I have been doing is trying to catch the stimulus before the dog does and call him over and reward him with treats when he doesn’t bark or chase.
Is this considered counter conditioning?
The dog isn’t mine but he comes to
Stay with me on a regular basis.
Thanks for this free mini course and thanks for any input and feedback.
Amy
Great question, Amy! If the dog doesn’t perceive the stimulus, it’s not counter conditioning, more just distraction. It’s only if perceiving the aversive stimulus is a predictor of the treat that you could counter condition it. See the runner – get food. See the runner – get food. See the runner – where’s the food? The runner needs to be at such a distance or moving so slowly as to not lead to the barking/chasing reaction – keep under threshold: systematic desensitization.
My dog is fearful of other dogs & has never been able to walk towards them, even as a puppy. Over the past 3 years I have got her to the stage of sitting & waiting as they approach but her body language is fearful until they have passed by. I usually reward as they go passed us but from now on I will give her treats the moment I spot a dog in the distance. Thanks for your help.
Sounds like a great idea! Sometimes you can get help from a friend with staged meetings – so you can control the distance, intensity and behaviour of the “monster” – the trigger.
Hello..we had the same problem with our dog and bikes and runners and my husband solved the issue by bringing his bike along on a camping trip once and riding along the beach with her running along beside him and now she is no longer bothered by bikes or runners…
Habituation can be so powerful! Great example! 🙂
for video #1
Hi Karolina and everyone,
Sorry this is long.
Someone mentioned life as an empath. I have that perception of the world around me. It is a blessing and a curse. But I also came to fully understand that it doesn’t help if you are limited to projecting and interpreting from your own experience. In addition to being a parent and an RN in the Operating Room of a trauma center and other stuff, including Human Animal Intervention and working on a higher level certification at the Ethology Institute. I am constantly flooded with information that has to be processed while I am seeing new dogs in front of me so I try to let go and let my brain do its thing.
I wish that I had the education I have currently, earlier in my live and all my dogs’ lives. At this point I only have my Bearded Collie remaining and she is true to her breed. Long story short, while my family went through a busy and emotional time of tremendous change she went from herding behavior to fear aggression. She was the only girl in her litter and I had then in my home from 12 weeks to about 15. From the start, (clue) she would only eat her food separately from her brothers.(.clue) In our family she was “middle dog child.” Another clue-She had gone with a hander to shows 🙁 the handler said the dog was so nervous that she, unprecedented, had to sleep at the foot of her bed when she went with her.( at the time, I didn”t know that the first night she traveled, she was left with the other show dogs at the venue, in a crate overnight-Do Not even discuss this with me). No matter what, huge stupid move on my part. Not intro to the show world etc….0MG
There were 2 other permanent dogs,SCWT and Havanese, during her lifetime. Ultimately there was no horrible ending, but this time of my life, as I look back, brings tears and hope they understand that I just “didnt get it.
I thought it was sibling rivalry or too much “bossyness” when one of the SCWT would bark at someone outside through the front bay window and this would set the Beardie off and she would start barking and if that someone came to the front door, the 2 of them would run to it.
I would go to the door and the Havanese would come with me. If she and started barking and got too close to the bearded collie((Carly), then Carly she would , at times, turn and go after the Havanese(Tess). I learned quickly to prevent this but I can tell you that there were other times that the Carly would turn on the havanese and hurt her accidentally. Got to a point where Tess ate after the big girls. If the displaced aggression was directed at the SWCT Abby, that was a more fair situation.
More to the problem, life evolved to where I worked long hours and my friend who walked all my dogs thought cesar was king and although he would never inflict pain, he focused more on;1- them waiting for him to walk out of the door first,2- left the havanese at home (because) she didn’t want to walk with the other 2 dogs and 3- he kept them away from all other dogs because he had zero understanding of socialization and so they were always pulled away and tight leash restrained.
They did not behave that way walking alone with me an the havanese would come with us.
I could write a thesis on this.
Fast forward to life today. The SWCT and the Havanese are waiting at the Rainbow Bridge.
I have worked intensely with Carly, my beardie, to desensitize and recondition her to know I have her back so she can relax and watch the cues of an approaching dogs, rather than how tight the lead may be as they approach each other (for example, my entire neighborhood is now well versed on loose leash let the dogs do their thing and follow them). We can go to fairs, she shops for her toys and waits on line………..but not with my friend who still walks her when I am at work( i have no choice). He has changed some but I just care that he loves her (and his girlfriend knows how to reason with him better than I can). Carly does not need a muzzle at the vet when I am there.
BUT and this is a huge BUT:
We are not done. There are still approaches that seem tight but they do ok. There are still some greetings that seem ok and then there are lunges. We humans cant always know what is impolite. There are no guarantees. She is still petrified of storms. She is still stubborn. She is still a sweetheart and a control freak.
I WILL say this…. i am always proud when Carly NOW will correct another dog with a growl, a little tight lip action and even an abbreviated lunge and back off ; the other dog now given a chance to respond accordingly. At that point I am on guard. But Carly’s cue is clear her point is well understood by other dogs and that is what I am aiming for. She has also developed the ability to offer calming cues and to understand them.
I do still have questions but more about that later…..
Life is so different and my perception of the dogs is very different.
I think I once wrote something to you a few years back after watching one of your videos from a different email regarding Jaak Panksepp changing my world. I cried when he died last year ( or so) having missed the opportunity to meet him. I started a business working with dogs and their owners based on his work. More about that later………
video#2——Getting back to my bearded collie, Carly
My goal was to Lower her constant heightened state of arousal and to counter condition her fear [aggression] of [toward]whatever was out there. Mind you I am aware that this was going to be a challenge because she’s a herding dog therefore she’s naturally constantly scanning her environment.
So I did use methods of pairing treats with stress inducing situations. This is carefully timed and requires constant vigilance on your part. AND people did criticize me because all they could perceive was that I was treating her for barking etc.
Why? I would ask them to stand and allow her to approach them after she had done a lunge in and away from them. Guess what?
Now
When Carly and I are together, she is able to relax and in a crowd, the beautiful result of our work and relationship is that she has a specific touch for me(she puts her nose and mouth in my palm the way I asked her back when she was learning “look at me”) that tells me “LOOK AT ME!.” Now my proudest moments are when she has decided she has had enough of the crowd or whatever we are doing, and chooses to leave. And we do.
Great that you’ve had such success with counterconditioning! Indeed, some people might think that you’re “rewarding the bark” – but it’s all about changing the emotional state. Removing the need to bark by changing the value of the trigger. It IS difficult though, and sometimes people get this wrong – they escalate the trigger too quickly, or they get the timing wrong, or the value of the treat isn’t high enough. This works best with high value treats and low level triggers.
Hi Karolina,
Thank you very much for granting us with this free series of classes!
I have a nearly 3 years old male border collie, full of energy, a very happy and funny bunny. He gets lots of exercise. My concern is that when we have stressful moments in the household, more specifically when me and my partner have an argument, he gets very scared, to the point now its enough that I only say 1 word or sight, he gets my change of mood and moves slowly to a corner with ears back, head down, scared eyes, totally NOT his ways. It really amazes me how rapidly he picks on my negative change of mood. We sometimes say to him during our argument going on, “it is all fine with you buddy”, but I do not see any sign that that helped. Do you have any tips that could help us/him – besides of course of us humans being cooler (shame on us!!) ?
Thank you so much. Best regards.
Hi Cecilia – what about if you use the counterconditioing/systematic desensitization described in video 2? If your “loud angry voice” is the monster, so to speak? So, start out with “low angry voice” or “intermediate happy voice” and gradually change it to “loud angry voice” – all the while pairing with treats? Of course, he could be picking up on your moods rather than the tone of voice in which case it might be difficult to “teach” him not to get upset when you’re in an argument. In such cases, it may be better to continue the conversation in another room, or – though it might be difficult – learn a more low-affective way of communicating? Non-violent communication, I’ve heard, is a great tool (though I’m not very familiar with it): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nonviolent_Communication
Thank you very much, I will look into both suggestions:)
Hi Carolina,
Thanks for you sharing your knowledge!
I have a dog who is safe with shootguns, fireworks but she is scared of the sms-textsignal.
It emerged when a person got a nervous breakdown and sended a lot of sms-text and the person who recived the sms-text went very upset and sad. My dog were in the same room.
After that she is very, very afraid of it. She goes from calm to flee-mood in millesecond.
Right now we just try to avoid the signal but some times its out of our control.
She even start to have a reaction on when in comes 5-6 persons to our home because she has the experince that the signal may appear.
It hard too train beacause i dont want to train it home at her safe place.
And its hard too train beaucause its a sound.
Please Can you give me an advice how i should do?
Marika, if the sound is the “monster” (video 2) then get a recording of the sound and play it back to her at VERY low intensity levels – you should not get a reaction. Pair the sound with a treat. Once she starts looking happy at the sound (since it’s now a treat predictor), increase the level one notch. Keep pairing it with treat. And keep those treats around for true text messages, too, once you’re done – at least for a while. Ideally while you’re training, try to keep telephones away from her so you don’t suddenly get a true text message in the midst of training – that might set her back. Also, try changing the sound of the text arrival on your phone – and go over all the training with that new sound?
Back in 2009 we had adopted 2 beautiful dogs. A black lab male named Neggie and a Belgian Mal. a female named Sadie. A few months after we got the dogs the Belgian Mal. Sadie was brutally attacted by a person we thought was a friend. We were not at home during the attack and both dogs were properly chained in the areas. He had slit her throat from ear to ear in an attempt to kill her all while she was still on her chain. Long story short she lived, he was prosecuted and we thought all was well. After she had healed from her wounds she began wandering off. Always came back but she was not the same. Because of our situation, we were homeless, we really had no other place to move to. We stayed. Things seemed normal until after I had been given 2 more dogs. One a female pit bull and the other a very young shepard mix puppy. Everyone seemed to adjust to one another pretty well but Sadie began not coming when called as she always did before. She walked with her tail and head down more and more. She played with the others happily but when it was time to be chained up she would walk away. We had had tge new dogs for a month or so before she decided just to walk away and not come back. We searched for ger and searched for her but never found her.
Looking back if I had payed attention to her little ques I may have better helped her get past her emotional trama of that attack! She was a great well mannered dog but the trama really messed her up. I believe she was uncomfortable with our area after the attack and she of course did not know we could not move to a safer place for her. I think she also feared the guy returning to finish her off.
Jacqueline, what a trauma, for all of you! Yes, she probably had a fear learning moment, especially since she couldn’t escape when chained up – learning to fear any stimulus that to her was associated with the attack, most probably – the chain would be on top of my list of possible learned fear-inducing stimuli. Thank you for sharing your story.
Jacqueline, My heart hurt for you and for Sadie. I had a toy poodle stolen from my family when I was a child. To this day, the trauma surfaces in ways I cant predict.
I try not to fall apart knowing how traumatic it was for my dog,
BUT
I hope you are feeling better after telling this story…….bc we all have to move to a different place where we too, shake off the stress of the angst……..
Very well explained, I am a trainer of a fun club, that is all about bonding with your dog and training each as an individual. I see myself training the person and not the dog, I “see” the emotional state of the dog long before the owner initially then train the owner to “see ” it the “predict” it. I have said what you are saying for a long time, I am not perfect noone is, we learn every day from our animals if we listen….
Look forward to seeing the other videos x
I’m not a dog person myself and I’m always so impressed with how well experienced trainers read the species they’ve been working with. A bird trainer I once learned from said: “oh, he’s gonna poop now”. Which he did. And I didn’t have a clue what it was about his body language that told her that! 🙂
I take my puppies once a week to the vet where the scales are in the waiting room. We go in, the dog gets to sit on the scales, I reward them with a treat, we go out. I do this for months and months. So when there is actually a situation when the dog needs a shot or a blod sample the dog will have plenty of experiences of the vet as a safe place.
I continue to do this every once in a while with adult dogs as well. Especially after visits where there was pain in some way. I try to make sure that negative experiences are very much outnumbered by calm/happy experiences.
The club where I train is sponsored by a local vet clinic that invites us to come visit with our puppy classes to give this positive first experience to young pups. This is really excellent, a win win for everyone!
Fabulous! Negative experiences outnumbered – wonderful! 🙂
Such a great idea!
This might not be relevant on fear or any particular emotion but is rather an experience on how much we unintentionally mediate (without words) to certain animals.
I used to have three cats and I have always been very close to two of them. My male cat, Gaston, is extremely sensitive and depending on me like an insecure child. He is very much affected by my conditions and is always wary of what I am doing.
In March this year I had to say goodbye to my 14,5 year old Siri. My vet and I had tried to care for her renalfailure for about 6 months but when several additional problems occured I decided to let her go before her life turned into misery. I called a vet and asked her to come here. You can image what state I was in after that phonecall. I’m not an extrovert or externalised person but I was very sad and upset.
5 minutes after that call my other cat, Gaston, had a grande mal epileptic seizure. I thought he died.
My vet (who is specialized in cats) says that idiopatic epilepsy in cats normally occur at the age of 3-4 years. My Gaston is 13 years but none of the surveys show anything that can explain the seizure. He hasn’t had any more seizures after that. Without knowing, but perhaps being a bit superstitious, I can’t help thinking that he somehow felt what I was going through and that my grief affected him in a profound way.
So sorry for your loss – and what a terrible experience having to watch your cat go through that minutes after such a traumatic call!
Yes, there’s coincidence, but also… we don’t know much about inter-specific emotional contagion…
Hi Karolina,
Thank you for your videos and answers to our questions!
This is not directly fear related, but I guess it could end that way.
It’s about smart phones. I very aware of myself using it, and afraid of not paying enough attention to my little girl. But my question is, is it worse to use the smartphone than reading a book, watch TV, crochet, do housework or as I did today, leave her in the veranda and climbed in top of the roof to get read of leaves etc (she started crying when I was in sight)
Thank you!
Berit, I’m thinking that animals learn when they have our attention and when not. Whether you’re reading, watching TV, smartphoning – you’re inaccessible, even though you may be physically present. They may learn that if they whine, they’ll get your attention..! 😉
Climbing on top of the roof is being physically absent – and also doing something novel and strange. Many animals will respond to novelty, and perhaps the best thing would be for her not to see you do something that weird…?
Thank you for these interesting videos, I am currently feeling my way around training two young horses. I have had some success with counter conditioning ( I think!) for picking out feet , and a few other things, but the younger of the two I am struggling with a bit. One is 3 and 9 months, the other 3 and 3 months , and the younger us much more sensitive. Doing my best to take things very slowly , but having some issues with leading and haven’t got further that getting 2.5 feet on trailer ramp. She has got so that she won’t tend to lead out of stable, even if she has previously been kicking door to come out, and can’t think of what I might have done to have scared her about coming out. And have tried carrot, feed etc to go into trailer, but just will not go any further in. Tried breaking task down with going through narrow spaces and standing/ walking across platform.
Great that you’re breaking it down, introducing aspects of the potentially scary thing separately. Control is important too – is she the one initiating movement, or are you leading her? That might make all of the difference! I wrote a blog post about the importance of control here: https://illis.se/en/does-your-animal-have-control/
Thank you, that is interesting to think about. I do try to be polite and ask if for instance I can put headcollar on, and if no, wait, and ask again, for instance, but have currently been getting a lot if no, and some aggressive behaviour around this – the younger filly is now improving , but the older one getting a bit worse. And not sure what to do if they just say no not ever! Have shied away from clicker as got put off by demo where seemed to me the horses were stressed , offering every possible behaviour to try to get a treat , but maybe should reconsider. I have spent most of my time this last year or so working on myself, body awareness and using Trust Technique , as know that animals are so perceptive about our body language and emotional states, and I tend to be quite anxious myself.
I think it’s useful asking “what’s in it for the animal?”. If you put the headcollar on, what does the animal get out of collaborating?
For some animals, they collaborate in order to get away from discomfort or pain (correction-based methods).
I would much rather that the animal collaborate to get something that they want. “If you put the headcollar on, you’ll get a treat”.
If the animal then chooses to say no, I’d ask myself hmmm…
1) is there any discomfort or pain associated with wearing the headcollar?
2) does it predict any discomfort or pain?
3) does the animal actually want the thing I’m offering? (treats, scratches, play sessions – whatever is in it for them.
The animal saying no is information. I wouldn’t just insist, but try to find out why – and see if I can change his mind.
About clicker training, from what I hear from horse trainers, getting started can be tricky if you don’t have someone to show you. See if you can find someone in your area who can be a mentor..! Or find an online course – I know there are several out there! It is DEFINITELY worth having in your tool box!
Thank you . I worked on the head collaring today, and the younger filly was much better, started off wanting to kick and bite , but we had a conversation where she ended up choosing time and place and that was ok. The older filly very aggressive about it in the stable, or loose in field, but allowed it with head over stable door. Worked on it in stable , and eventually got calmer response. My husband says my bitch face ( my words, his implication) when I am scared or frustrated doesn’t help
Thanks for sharing! It’s a really great idea to video tape yourself – and look at what you’re doing. Your facial expressions, tone of voice, body language, and technical training skill when it comes to training (timing, critera, rate of reinforcement)… it can be really uncomfortable to watch, but you learn SO MUCH!
Hi Karolina,
I’m really interested in why animals react in the way that they do, and it’s only recently I realised that a big portion of my rescue street dog’s reason for running off or trying to escape or being distracted whilst out is still fear based. I’m so looking forward to learning more and using this knowledge to help her and other rescue dogs.
Suzanne, I don’t have experience of street dogs, but my guess is that many of them have had traumatic experiences with humans that have caused fear learning. I’d expect them to be much more difficult to care for compared to a puppy raised under ideal conditions, by a knowledgeable breeder.
What a fabulous summary of FEAR. I know from own experience how much suffer this can cause but also how much impact our knowledge in animal emotions can have on our animal.
Karolina , your “The Animal Emotions Course” is really an eye opener , not only when it comes to handle our Animal but also to handle the life.
Malin, thanks – glad you enjoyed this short summary! 🙂
I’m a breeder of Australian Shepherds and soon after puppies are born I try to get them used to noises and lots of different weird looking things. I have cats so they too are involved in letting puppies see them and smell them. Sometimes there will be a puppy which shows signs of being scared so I then just limit it from being exposed as often as others. That little extra time makes a huge difference. I am always pleased to get feedback from my puppies new owners as to how their new family addition just seems to adapt so well.
I wish more people would take the time to get to know their animals better .
This was a great explanation of how and why it’s so important
Judy, I wish all breeders followed your example! Those first experiences are SO important in determining the pup’s personality! Lovely also that you take it slow and avoid getting over threshold..! 🙂
Wonderful teaching! We are changing everything here. Thank you.
You’re welcome, Jan! 🙂
Another excellent and informative video. I have fostered a number of fearful animals including cats, ferrets and dogs. And your advice to reduce external stimuli is dead on! The less they see and hear and are undisturbed, the quicker they adjust. With dogs and cats, I confine them to a quiet room and only come in to feed, change water, clean litter or take out into yard to toilet. With my rescued street dog, who was terrified to even go outside, I put down puppy pads. With ferrets, I cover their cage with a blanket. I do this for a minimum of 2 weeks, with some it takes much longer. I let the animal communicate to me when he/she is feeling secure enough to venture out of the room. It took my street dog 2 months before he left his crate and cautiously went outdoors but only at night and only if my other dog accompanied him. It took another 6 months before he would go outside during daylight hours.
Hi Karolina and everyone,
Sorry this is long.
Someone mentioned life as an empath. I have that perception of the world around me. It is a blessing and a curse. But I also came to fully understand that it doesn’t help if you are limited to projecting and interpreting from your own experience. In addition to being a parent and an RN in the Operating Room of a trauma center and other stuff, including Human Animal Intervention and working on a higher level certification at the Ethology Institute. I am constantly flooded with information that has to be processed while I am seeing new dogs in front of me so I try to let go and let my brain do its thing.
I wish that I had the education I have currently, earlier in my live and all my dogs’ lives. At this point I only have my Bearded Collie remaining and she is true to her breed. Long story short, while my family went through a busy and emotional time of tremendous change she went from herding behavior to fear aggression. She was the only girl in her litter and I had then in my home from 12 weeks to about 15. From the start, (clue) she would only eat her food separately from her brothers.(.clue) In our family she was “middle dog child.” Another clue-She had gone with a hander to shows 🙁 the handler said the dog was so nervous that she, unprecedented, had to sleep at the foot of her bed when she went with her.( at the time, I didn”t know that the first night she traveled, she was left with the other show dogs at the venue, in a crate overnight-Do Not even discuss this with me). No matter what, huge stupid move on my part. Not intro to the show world etc….0MG
There were 2 other permanent dogs,SCWT and Havanese, during her lifetime. Ultimately there was no horrible ending, but this time of my life, as I look back, brings tears and hope they understand that I just “didnt get it.
I thought it was sibling rivalry or too much “bossyness” when one of the SCWT would bark at someone outside through the front bay window and this would set the Beardie off and she would start barking and if that someone came to the front door, the 2 of them would run to it.
I would go to the door and the Havanese would come with me. If she and started barking and got too close to the bearded collie((Carly), then Carly she would , at times, turn and go after the Havanese(Tess). I learned quickly to prevent this but I can tell you that there were other times that the Carly would turn on the havanese and hurt her accidentally. Got to a point where Tess ate after the big girls. If the displaced aggression was directed at the SWCT Abby, that was a more fair situation.
More to the problem, life evolved to where I worked long hours and my friend who walked all my dogs thought cesar was king and although he would never inflict pain, he focused more on;1- them waiting for him to walk out of the door first,2- left the havanese at home (because) she didn’t want to walk with the other 2 dogs and 3- he kept them away from all other dogs because he had zero understanding of socialization and so they were always pulled away and tight leash restrained.
They did not behave that way walking alone with me an the havanese would come with us.
I could write a thesis on this.
Fast forward to life today. The SWCT and the Havanese are waiting at the Rainbow Bridge.
I have worked intensely with Carly, my beardie, to desensitize and recondition her to know I have her back so she can relax and watch the cues of an approaching dogs, rather than how tight the lead may be as they approach each other (for example, my entire neighborhood is now well versed on loose leash let the dogs do their thing and follow them). We can go to fairs, she shops for her toys and waits on line………..but not with my friend who still walks her when I am at work( i have no choice). He has changed some but I just care that he loves her (and his girlfriend knows how to reason with him better than I can). Carly does not need a muzzle at the vet when I am there.
BUT and this is a huge BUT:
We are not done. There are still approaches that seem tight but they do ok. There are still some greetings that seem ok and then there are lunges. We humans cant always know what is impolite. There are no guarantees. She is still petrified of storms. She is still stubborn. She is still a sweetheart and a control freak.
I WILL say this…. i am always proud when Carly NOW will correct another dog with a growl, a little tight lip action and even an abbreviated lunge and back off ; the other dog now given a chance to respond accordingly. At that point I am on guard. But Carly’s cue is clear her point is well understood by other dogs and that is what I am aiming for. She has also developed the ability to offer calming cues and to understand them.
I do still have questions but more about that later…..
Life is so different and my perception of the dogs is very different.
I think I once wrote something to you a few years back after watching one of your videos from a different email regarding Jaak Panksepp changing my world. I cried when he died last year ( or so) having missed the opportunity to meet him. I started a business working with dogs and their owners based on his work. More about that later………
Sincerely,
Margo Patrick
yowsandchai@gmail.com
Margo, thanks for sharing your journey! I think you’re making an important point which is that different people will treat animals differently – and it’s often training the people that’s the difficult part!
Thank you for your interesting and informative videos. I’m hoping to help my shy fearful dog overcome her noise sensitivity. It can be hard to manage and avoid escalation of her fear. She was also very attached to the other dog who we’ve just lost and everything has just got so much worse for her. I wish she could enjoy life again!
Hi Julia, sorry to hear about losing your other dog! Hopefully you will all feel better after some more time has passed…
I did write a huge blog post with all things related to noise phobia – perhaps you’ll get ideas here: https://illis.se/en/nine-ways-to-reduce-firework-and-thunder-phobia-in-dogs/
Working with a 400+ lb, 5 month ild Scottish Highland heifer calf. She has begun dangerously head butting and charging. It can happen while I grooming her or the other calves while they seemingly enjoy it. She can be laying down and will get up, come over to me and butt me away then lay down where I was standing. I can simply be out in the field and sometimes she will wak over go me and try to butt me like she wants me to leave. It can happen when she expects to be grained and seems like she is trying to get me to feed her quicker. I have been having to (try) to keep her at a distance from me because the behavior is so dangerous. The other caves she is with are her size and age and they aren’t doing this at all. She used to be very bonded to me and sought attention from people in a safe constructive way. Not sure why this is happening now not what to do about it. I am extremely concerned about her eventual safey and that of myself and the few other people who from time to time must be present with her to prive care for the calves.
Hi Kat! Some animals who imprint on people behave both aggressively and sexually towards humans – not sure if this is what’s going on in cattle, but from what I can tell head butting is a common and potentially serious problem. Most people seem to resolve this by punishing the behaviour by smacking the animal – personally I’d rather look for other, non-punitive ways of resolving the issue. Managing the situation by working her in protected contact (with a barrier between you), or perhaps teaching some more appropriate behaviour that you could ask for when she shows the warning signs.
Hi Karolina,
I’m an Equine Massage Therapist & Animal Communicator. With each session my intention is to allow the animal to guide me in my work.
I’m always seeking new knowledge and enjoyed this first video. Thank you for sharing your expertise. I look forward to the rest of your videos.
Liz Steele
Thank you Liz! 🙂
Thank you for this opportunity. I have a 11 year old cat. For almost 1½ year ago her companion – a 15 year old Golden Retriever – died.
I can see that she wants to engage me into something – by her sitting and staring at me – and also vocalizing sometimes.
My problem is that I can not find out what it is she want of me.
… perhaps try different things and see how she responds? Playing? Cuddling? Letting her out? Feeding? You can teach her to communicate by consistently offering one thing when she does a specific behaviour. Once she gets the hang of that, she may start “asking” more for some things than others.
Hi Karolina,
Thank you for a very interesting first video. I’m looking so much forward to see the upcoming 3 videos 🙂
I have a (allmost) 7 months old Toller girl Waggy. When home alone she stays in a scullery and seems quite relaxed and in good mood, when we leave her for work. She is never alone more than 3-4 hours.
When I come home from work, Waggy withdraws to the farthest end of the scullery, making big eyes and putting her ears back (looking a bit suspicious/anxious of who’s coming). I get in, takes off my jacket, get down on the floor, talking to Waggy in a happy voice. Then she’s making small steps in one place, wags her tail and coming towards me to greet me with a bit jumping up (I would prefer her not to do that).
I don’t quite know what to make of this behavior – but I surely don’t want her to be unhappy in any way.
I can only relate it to one incident that happened prox. two months ago. Waggy was sitting by the door, when I reached for my jacked right behind her. I did not notice that a long metal shoehorn was hanging on the same knot as my jacket. The shoehorn fell down right behind Waggy, hitting and frightening her and she ran to the other end of the room. Maybe that’s the cause, I don’t know, but I would really like for her to be happy and confident, when I come home to her.
Thanks for sharing your story, Hanne! It sure sounds like that incident may have triggered her fearful behaviour! I’d try to sort out what it is about that situation that causes her behaviour (the location, your closing the door, your clothing, reaching for the clothes’ rack…), and then use systematic desensitization and counter conditioning to help her (more about that in video 2). Or change the environment, for instance use another entrance, that she doesn’t have that association with?
Hi Karolina! Thank you for sharing your knowledge for free! I have recently studied games based concept training (dogs) and a huge part of it is about looking at and changing emotions. I am hoping that I can learn more from you, and even just add support and clarification to stuff I have already learned so that I can better explain it to my clients, many of whom are very stuck in the old schools of thought like flooding, showing dog who’s boss etc. etc. Sometimes that is the hardest part! I am so looking forward to the next videos … and if I can afford it the course too!
Oh, yes, changing the people’s behaviour is the hard part! It’s much easier to change animals’ behaviour. Most of the time…!
Hey Rona! Nice to see another ProTrainer furthering their knowledge and understanding. Karolina, I loved this first video and and super excited for the next ones! Like Rona said, this goes hand in hand with the training I’ve already received. LOVE IT! Thank you!
Sandra – thanks! Glad to hear this resonated with you! 🙂
Hi Rona and Sandra….Another PDT here! (I cannot get enough of building my knowledge base.) Loving these videos as they relate so much to our purpose. It is exciting to know that this information is resonating with so many!
Hi Karolina,
My daughter has a pony who sometimes gets very stressed at jumping competitions. When it happens, she becomes “blank” and is very hard to reach and communicate with. Other times she is only happy and seems to be really enjoying it. We are trying to find out what triggers this stress, since it doesn’t happen every time, and at some shows it happens in one class and not the other. I am very much looking forward to some tips and help with this problem of ours and ultimately make our wonderful pony happy and able to perform her best 🙂
Often (but not always) finding the trigger also presents the solution. Take notes – of everything! … and see if you can find the pattern!
Thanks for the video, and I’m looking forward to seeing them all. I believe I have missed some vital emotional signs from my dog recently. Jemima is a staffy cross rescued in July 2016, approx 9 months old, had been a stray on the streets, and spent a month at the RSPCA then I got her. I have no idea of her life before then.
She is an anxious little thing, guards me and the house and car by shouting, lunging, face punching, even some nipping. I think she’s fearful. She lives in a house with 2 adults, my partner and I. At home with just us, she is relaxed, happy (it seemed), didn’t fret, cry, chew or destroy anything, seems to like affection, yet doesn’t demand it constantly, happy to lay on the couch nearby while we work in the office, initiates cuddling up in the recliners when we are relaxing, absolutely the perfect companion. She generally plays well with other dogs, although usually picks one dog bigger than her and keeps trying to hump them. I’m not sure how to stop that! It’s annoying for the other dog. She gets good socialisation with one day at doggy day care, another day at her best friend’s place, with a rest day in between, plus several sessions per week at the local off-lead park, and regular runs and exploring in our 2 acre paddock. She’s on a mostly grain free diet, mostly fresh, mostly raw, with plenty of variety. I’ve had her checked by the vet, who said she is very healthy.
Although she has bonded very strongly with me, more so than with my partner, she has still always played well with him, they play tug, he pets her, she sits with him in his recliner, snuggled up with him when watching TV. About 3 months ago, in fact after 2 years of living with us, she
one day started guarding me against my him! Barking and lunging at him, punching him with her nose, if he walked past while she was sitting with me on my chair. We thought she was guarding me, so had her spend more time on her mat, instead of sitting with me, still in the same room (little house, she’s not far away from us). She still kept doing it. I get him to give her brekky and dinner, and am trying counter conditioning, but I’m not getting it right somehow, and now all he has to do is move from his chair and she’s up and at him! I think she’s fearful, but don’t know why, and then I wonder if it has become a habit for her as well. I’ve always tried to be observant of her body language, have tried to learn as much as I can about it, but I have obviously missed the signals prior to this change towards my partner. I don’t know what changed for her. He’s getting frustrated and fed up, and it has caused some arguments, which means unpleasant voices, and I notice she leaves the room, so it obviously upsets her, and I think that just makes her worse, so it’s a bit of a circle.
Hoping to get some insights from your videos.
Hi Rose, I can see how this can be very perplexing and frustrating. I would recommend you to seek help in determining what is maintaining this behaviour. Here’s an article shedding some light on it, and some common techniques. However, without knowing the why it’s hard to suggest any solution. https://www.dailydogdiscoveries.com/tag/dog-guarding-owner/
Wonderful video. I have an English Shepherd who I adopted at 3 years of age. She essentially spent the first 3 years of her life confined to a crate. Many issues but over time with ongoing work, support from a canine behaviourist, veterinarian etc. she is improving. The other dog I adopted at 2 years of age is a street dog from Greece. He also has come a long way but still has numerous fears. He was completely shut down for the first 2 months I had him. Both dogs are very fearful of men. They strongly bonded to each other and to me. I have to take them out together because the street dog panics if separated from his doggy companion. This post would be too long to get into more details, but the one behaviour I am somewhat puzzled by is that when I have both on leash and they see/hear humans, they quickly become agitated and the street dog inevitably attacks his bonded companion, who of course defends herself. So I have two snarling, fighting dogs on leash. I am suspecting that the street dog is so fearful that he goes into fear aggression mode and displaces that onto his companion. Note, because of his fear, I do not walk these dogs but confine them to a fairly large fenced yard where they play etc. Its when I am taking them to the yard and there happens to be human noises, i.e., neighbours in yard etc. that this occurs.
Thanks for sharing Tressie. It sure makes me wonder what early life experiences your street dog might have had..! Glad to hear you’ve had some professional help with this!
I enjoyed your first video, Karolina. I have a 1-year-old border collie/mountain dog cross, Lola. She is a bundle of energy and loves to play and explore. When people come over to visit, she gets super hyper and jumps up on them and is very hard to settle down. I am looking forward to paying more attention to her emotional state before this happens and learning more about it. Thank you.
Thank you, Dawn! I hope you’ll get some ideas through this mini-course! 🙂
Hi Karolina. I have four dogs, my youngest Golden Retriever missed a lot of puppy socialization due to giardia when he finally was clear my husband took him to puppy school and he got in a fight with another puppy, it started a big ruckus and both dogs were not allowed in play time. I went to see and it was chaos so happy to keep him out but, it he missed a lot of socialization with dogs his own age. He was fine in basic 1 but when he started basic 2 now ~9 months old he was over the top excited and reacted by growling and lunging at the other dogs. He was not able to be in the ring and couldn’t work at all, he was a totally different dog. I pulled him and we start Rally O, smaller class, working alone in the ring. He is doing much better, quite a happy boy working. But the over excitement is still there and he sometimes growls at other dogs. It’s not aggression as much as excitement that he doesn’t know how to deal with. I would love to know how to manage the emotions and help him to work through it and channel it in a different way. He’s a very happy goofy smart dog but he has history that may also be affecting his behavior. I am hoping your series will help me help him. Thank you.
Hi Vanessa, your story really illustrates the importance of social experiences during crucial developmental periods! Hopefully he can rehabilitate through the interaction with stable dogs, and you can perhaps try conditioned relaxation? Check this out: https://synalia.com/aboutsats/conditioned-relaxation/
Hi Karolina,
Thank you for sharing your insights into animal behaviour.
I am here because I would like to learn how to better clue into the emotional state of our cats. I have two male cats that are litter mates. The first cat came to us when he was three months old. He is well adjusted, affectionate and playful. His litter mate joined us four weeks later.
At first, everything went well, he fitted in and became a part of our family. However, over time he began to bully his brother. The bullying does not happen all the time but when it does it appears to come out of nowhere. It is obvious that we are missing the triggers that precludes these attacks. Thankfully, it is only a few nips before the other cat runs away and does not engage. Other than that, they are loving and kind to each other.
Thank you again for sharing your knowledge with us. I am super excited to be a part of this course.
Blessings,
Jeanet
Jeanet, thanks for sharing! The thing that comes to mind when I read your comment is Jackson Galaxy’s catification concept. It’s about arranging the environment to be cat friendly, which is especially important in multi-cat households. Check him out! 🙂
Hi Karolina,
Thank you kindly for your great advice.
I looked at Jackson Galaxy’s catification concept, and added a few more interesting items to our feline companion’s environment. The attacks have diminished, great start!. Over time I am sure it will stop completely.
However, something extremely interesting have been happening to the other cat – the one that was being attacked. Amongst one of the toys purchased from the Jackson Galaxy collection is an ordinary interactive string toy.
To say that my cat is ‘obsessed’ is an understatement. The best way to describe his reaction to the toy is akin to Gollum in Lord of the Rings who was corrupted by the ring and called it his precious. Whenever the cat manages to pick up the toy in his mouth, he cries and walks about the place as if looking for a place to put it. He does not appear to be in any pain but I wonder what is happening emotionally – it is as if this toy as triggered some primal response. What comes to mind is a mommy cat carrying her babies to a safe place.
Oivey! More things to learn about 🙂
Thanks for letting us know how it’s working out – so glad you found some ideas with Jackson! Sometimes all you have to do is make changes to the environment.
Interesting with the Gollumy behaviour – I can really see it in my mind’s eye! Wonder what’s going on..? Let us know if you get any more insights!
Hi Karolina, Late in my Irish Setter’s life, she became my canine soul mate. She was so expressive and intent on communicating, and she would put her head in my lap when she felt I was upset (never with her) or getting too worked up. She has high IQ and EQ! My Brittany, rescued at 5 years old, would run away. He seemed broken hearted about losing his first person but also traumatized by his early training and experiences. He liked he ball and boys more than me but over his next 7 years, I became his “safe person” and he stopped running away and would come when I called. When he needed help getting up and into the car, his eyes would look so appreciative for my help and care. Now with my only dog, an almost two year old Sheltie, I have made our relationship primary and deliberate. The rewards are off the charts. He is a happy learner, friendly to other dogs and people, and has been able to conquer his early multitude of fears. He communicates with me and cooperates. We take turns leading the walks. He enjoys sheep herding and agility foundation lessons. Clicker training plus opportunities for reinforcement with no negatives has resulted in a confident eager learner. My goal is to provide for his needs and to always be his safe person. He is and will be my best dog yet, my dog child. As a student and teacher of animal behavior and training, I cannot express enough my appreciation for your message to improve pet welfare and win-win relationships with humans. Your message is so needed and can make a huge difference in the joy that animals and people share. Thank you!
Susan, thanks for sharing your learning journey. What a wonderful thing it is when all is well, and that sense of connection is true!
Thank you for these free lessons… I know I must have missed something along the way in pinpointing when my 5 yr old pup have now gotten reactive over moving vehicles or bikes. She would lunge and bark until it disappears – I would do anything to make her less fearful. I have also asked other owners of the breed if this is common – and the responses I have gotten is 85% of the breed is fearful of cars/bikes. I’m thinking maybe it’s their size – the breed is a small breed. I am extremely looking forward to your video 2. Thank you again.
Hi LeeYong – hopefully you can get some ideas out of video 2! It sounds like your girl has learned that “if she lunges and barks, the scary things disappear”. Hopefully you can instead teach her that a) if she looks at you, the scary thing disappears, and b) the scary thing predicts treats, which makes it less scary.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience and I cannot wait for your second video …. I am lucky as are my animals and those that I work with that I understand how emotions theirs and mine or their guardians have an impact on behaviour and also the range of emotions involved. I trust that by sharing this animal’s lives will be improved. Brilliant and thank you again.
Thank you Stacey – glad you enjoyed this! 🙂
Thank you for your informative 1st Video, looking forward to the rest. Hoping they will help with my volunteering at the local dog refuge where there are many dogs with different needs and emotions. Also to help my non socialised rescue girl, who still is reactive to people but has overcome many of her fears.
I hope you’ll find some useful tips in these videos! 🙂
Hi and thank you for this interesting and important mini course. I can share a moment when I totally didn’t notice that my horse was uncomfortable with me and the training setting. We were at our outdoor riding arena with a trainer in rewardbased training and I was clicking for small weight shift on the hindlegs. I had a halter on and a rein but it was loose so he wouldn’t feel any pressure. He was just looking relaxed and did well in my point of view but then all of a sudden he just took of in high speed canter and ran like crazy all the way home to our farm, it’s 1000 metres. I had not seen any sign of discomfort but when I went over the session in my mind I could say that I had a small impression that my horse didn’t liked the task. So it was a huge eye opener. And by the extreme flight response I sure knew he hated my training. I don’t think he was in pain, just to much pressure from me. But it was also good he showed it so I could improve training so it’s not aversive to him.
Interesting. I wonder what it was that he did that nagged at your subconscious..? Something about the ears, the head, or the speed of the response..? We often get that “gut feeling” in response to such small changes – sometimes so small so we couldn’t even verbalize what’s going on. Trust your gut.
Hi Karolina,
Thank you for sharing your knowledge for free. I live with 3 Huskies. 1 male who is officially my sons dog, although my son moved out a couple of years ago. My 2 females are rescues. I fostered Honey when she was just a year old, I slept on the floor under the kitchen table for the first 2 weeks with her so that she would feel safe and to build up her trust. Unfortunately, as she was rescued from a puppy farm, it soon became clear that she was already pregnant! Honey was then cared for by SHWA(UK) until her pups were 10 weeks old. I adopted Honey and one of her pups. Honey was very wary of men, so we let her come to them in her own time. It took a long time, but with patience she now absolutely adores my partner and my son ❤️ The puppy has undergone a lot of orthopaedic surgery and missed out on socialising, I get frustrated with myself sometimes for not noticing the signs that she is unhappy with a situation when other dogs are around, but I am learning! My sons dog is fearful of noise, some things he has learned to deal with himself, like if a bus is driving along by us, he will now stop and look at the bus until it has passed, whereas before he would run into someone’s garden to hide. They are fascinating creatures.
I am looking forward to the next video. Thanks again, Chris
Thanks for sharing your story, Chris! 🙂
Can’t wait for part two! I am fully aware of my animals’ emotions and my own and how these can have an impact on them too, I just struggle with how to work with them. X
… you’re not alone in that struggle – it IS difficult!
Hi Karolina,
I think I am going to enjoy this video series!
We rescued a Boxer about a year & 1/2 ago & she was deserted on the streets & skin & bones when we rescued her. She bonded to us very quickly & loves us & we love her & she is the sweetest dog in the house but outside on the end of her leash she is awful when she sees another dog. she barks & lunges & appears quite viscous even though she shows no sign of being viscous in the house or with any people or children who come to our home. I try & walk her at times no other dogs will be out but I can’t always predict. When I see another dog I reroute. She loves her walk which she gets each day but it can be stressful for me always being on the lookout. I give her treats when she behaves well on a walk & she has stopped barking & lunging at houses with a barking dog in the yard or house when we walk by but the dog encounters have not improved at all. The strange thing is I have taken her to doggy day care to socialize her & she will play there off leash without doing this. It’s only on the leash this happens. This is not our first Boxer but our others we raised as puppies & socialized them & didn’t have this problem HELP!!! We even took her to a trainer for a while who said “I can’t do anything else with this dog”. It didn’t accomplish much at all.
Hi Ginny – leash aggression is a common problem with dogs – what you describe is not uncommon! I’ll talk about how to deal with fear in video 2, but you might want to check out Victoria Stilwels resource on leash aggression. I don’t work with dogs but agree with the main suggestions in this article: https://positively.com/dog-behavior/aggression/leash-aggression/
I’m a pet sitter and there was an incident that still puzzles me to this day and I still wish I could figure out if I missed a valuable clue. I use to care for this cat frequently. It loved to play and so I would spend an hour each day playing vigorously. Lots of the cat chasing the wand toy and fetching balls, chasing laser light etc. Sometimes the cat would lay in my lap and sniff my face and give little kisses. The day of the incident was the same. It was a large 3 story house that we could have full access of but the cat’s guardian insisted that the cat be in the bedroom between visits. As I was walking into the bedroom after playtime getting ready to give him fresh food from behind me he sprung at me and started scratching and biting me. I flung him off and he jumped on again. I flung him off and managed to shut him out of the room. I waited inside and I could hear him growling. After about 20 minutes I ventured out and he was still there growling. I made a run for it but only made it to the next room before having to slam the door again. To make a long story short. I eventually used a large painting as a shield and walked backward up the stairs with him following and growling. I backed out the front door and shut it and heard him fling himself against it. I was terrified. I called his guardians and they sent one of their friends to check on him about an hour later and they reported that he was calm and normal. What happened? It’s been 3 years and I am still trying to figure it out.
Sounds terrifying, for sure…! It sounds like a type of redirected aggression, which can be very scary and dangerous: some external stimulus causing the cat to become hyper-aroused, and then venting it on you. Could be other things too, though…: Read more here: https://www.petmd.com/cat/behavior/causes-sudden-aggression-cats
Thank you so much for a great and important video!!! <3 /Kicki
You’re welcome! 🙂
Hi.
A have a dog, Alma, my partner in crime (agility ). I love her. But.. She hates men. All men. And I didn’t know why. I my eyes it started out of the blue one day.
Well, when she was a puppy, I lived with my boyfriend, and we argued a lot, and then I moved out.
Then the problem with men started.
… I know, I can see it now, but I am so so ashamed that I didn’t see in time, the emotional effect all that human verbal fighting had on my dog, and I have no idea how to fix it for her now.
I can teach her to accept one man at a time, but that’s not good enough.
I can’t walk her in the city without her barking at every men miles away. It’s stressful for her. Not to talk about male visitors. It’s a nightmare.
I so look forward to seeing video 2.
Anja (and Alma) Denmark.
Anja, I think you’ll get some help in video 2 – about counterconditioning in combination with systematic desensitization. You can also read more here: https://illis.se/en/one-of-the-5-most-important-words-in-animal-training-counterconditioning/
I’m so happy that you are doing these courses and that many people are enrolled. Thank you!
I found some emotions easier to spot, and also when they are peaking of course. Some I don’t know if I make up in my head or if I read the animal right. There can be fear of putting my own emotions on the animals. Sometimes I get the feeling that there are parallel emotions or that they shift fast between emotions. Just the same way it can happen for myself.
For example my dog can be very happy when I get home or when someone he knows come over. It can be hard to understand how big part of that is stress in a not so nice way and what is just happiness. And let’s say it is just happiness but it takes form in behaviors not preciated from us humans it can turn in to a not 100% happy and safe situation for the dog. So it’s a complicated web of things for me understanding emotions, but so interesting!
Thank you again 🙂
Great points you’re making, both about the difficulty in interpreting emotions – and that they’re not fixed but in constant flux.
Having said that, people are actually better at reading animals than we’ve previously thought, and that fear of anthropomorphism is starting to diminish – it often helps us understand and predict behaviour! I wrote more about anthropomorphism here: https://illis.se/en/animal-trainers-take-animal-emotions-into-consideration/
Hi Karolina,
I have a little dog, who we believe have just been through a false(?) pregnancy. During day time she was ok. But at night she started crying and wanted to come on to my bed. When I couldn’t hush her I waited for a moment when she remained silent for I period and let her in to the bed. I continued to say good night to her in her bed, but I didn’t close the door, so she could come in when she wanted to, and she did. She cuddled into my arm and was calm then. Long story shortened, I don’t want her to sleep in my bed at all times. So after staying the weekend at the hut and coming back to normal routine I again closed the door. She made some noice, to say she wanted access, and I hushed her, and she calmed again. What I’m afraid of is, will she now have learned that I will not listen to her if her emotions are upsetting her? Will she not try to tell me. Is possible to have a cake and eat it too? That is can I hush her and still have her trust in me?
A good question and I can understand your concern – that of any parent! The important thing when it comes to trust is being predictably associated with good outcomes. “Predictable” doesn’t mean “always”.
Having said that, I know that a lot of people are choosing to co-sleep with their dogs and finding that the relationship deepens..!
Hi Karolina,
Very interesting topic. I have had many pets over my 73 years and fortunately have not encountered many issues with them. BUT I certainly hear my friends talk about all their problems with their dogs. I’ll definitely share this in the hope they will watch it.
I do however have a huge problem with one of my horses that I gave to someone for a year. She came back with terrible food aggression and I’ve had her back two years now and this behaviour continues. I’m looking forward to your segment on horses to get your insight on this.
Thanks, Pat
Vancouver Island, Canada
Pat, I hope you may get some ideas from this video series, although there is no particular horse-segment: the core emotions are shared by all mammals and birds…
When it comes to food aggression in horses, I think you need to rule out pain, and also try to assess whether there are any stressors in the environment that you can remove. Read more about this particular problem here: https://www.equinebehaviorist.ca/single-post/2017/12/07/Food-Aggressive-Horses
Hello Karolina
I have two rescue dogs. Especially girl was very aggressive towards other dogs during walks. She was barking and trying to… Not attacking them, but lounging towards them.. was that the right word? I started to teach her away from it with possitive training and I was able to reduse it alot. I have noticed that she has started to behave like that a little bit again, now that weather is getting darker during evening walks. She was a stray dog and maybe she was attact by other dogs, perhaps during darker hours (both are from Crete and boy isn’t like that at all). Maybe she still has fear inside her. I so much want to understand and to help her, to be free from that fear. That is one of the reasons why I took this your mini-video course. I love these both so much
… you might get some help and ideas from video 2, about fear. Often relearning another association may help: seeing another dog being a predictor of treats. Best of luck!
My boyfriend passed a month ago. I have his 11 month old male Pug and my 16 month female cocker. They have played together numerous times and now they live together. The Pug constantly mauls on my girl. Up until the past week they have always played that way. She is now growling and snapping. Yesterday he started getting into everything he can get into, last night it was cocoa in my overnight bag, the day before he cleared off my dresser. I have removed their bones and chews and left toys as a dog trainer recommended that for general training purposes. They both used them a lot during the day when I am at work…I can see the change in their state and location.
Your video seems to be saying I have missed cues about their emotions.
They are good when they are being lap dogs…and just sleep. LOL
I am so sorry for your loss!
During such periods of dramatic change to living conditions, many animals respond by changing their behaviour. Perhaps your girl could tolerate being mauled when it was infrequent, but now that it occurs more frequently she’s no longer ignoring it. The situation sounds complex and I would advice you to talk to a dog behaviour consultant who can ask all the relevant questions to help you find a solution!
Yes! Sooo many people ignore the animal’s emotional states! Thanks for reminding us that it’s important to pay attention to them!
Sometimes we get blind to what’s right in front of us…!
Hi Karolina
I was referred by a lady called Sijla who is a dog trainer 🙂
I am currently working at various animal shelters in California and Denmark whilst
studying animal bodywork and therapy.
I am an empath and go alot by the emotional status of the animal status which helps me alot.
I don’t believe it is a huge complicated science to understand animals.
This is why I am very excited to see if what you reveal in these next videos confirms what I am doing and that I can learn from you 🙂
I work with all kinds of dogs and I have 4 cats at home myself. Thank-you so much for sharing your wisdom for free.
Warm wishes
Cija
You’re welcome, Cija! 🙂